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Buttoning up loose ends. Here's the connector for the fuel selector valve with the loom stripped away  The only thing i need to do is splice the Y/LB into the Y/W  The DB/Y is the signal wire from the front tank float, and the R and Br/W come from the switch, but i have the switch unplugged in the dash so those are dead at both ends now. So then i just fixed the loom and now it looks like i never had a front tank  Got some fittings cobbled together to fix the water/meth injection. Not pretty but itll do for now until i can come up with a cleaner looking solution  ...and then i ran around like a chicken with my head cut off packing tools and spare parts, hooking up the trailer and loading up for tomorrow!  Here's hoping we have a good day tomorrow! Picking up where we left off, engine harness is now reinstalled  The second i touched the glow plug relay it broke; thankfully Napa had one in stock so thats already fixed  Fuse box is now reassembled and looking like i never touched it  After some research on oil filters, i opted to switch to the Fleetguard oil filter, p/n LF9027  Some interesting stuff going on in there. If youre not familiar with this filter, it is a standard 30 micron filter, with a 5 micron bypass filter built into the bottom. Its a good way to get bypass oil filtration, without having to install a big bulky bypass filter system on the engine.  That was the last item, nothing left to do but to turn the key and see if it would start.......and it did!  The fuel gauge is reading past full, so the circuit must be open. I guess it ties into the selector valve on the frame rail. Got the book in front of me, going to try to figure that one out tonight so i can rewire it tomorrow.. Went for a test drive and it ran great! Havent driven it in a month so its hard to say, but id swear it spools faster than it used to. I mean, it should as i had a pretty big leak on the driver up-pipe, but man it runs good now. I gave it a good thrashing on the freeway and got it to 32-33 PSI pretty quickly before i let off. Just did a quick 5 minute drive and came back to check stuff. Almost had a mini heart attack, i thought the valley was full of fuel!  Its not though, its water. Pulled the water/methanol nozzle out of the intake to test the system and found the adapter fitting for the nozzle is leaking  Closer inspection shows the fitting is split in half  So tonight at work im going to scrounge up some fittings to see what i can find to get it hooked back up, because i would really like it to be working for saturdays wheelin trip, and then ive got to get the fuel gauge working. So very close to being done! What is with the damn deer this year?!!! Hit another one last night. 30 seconds from the parking lot at work, small doe ran down the side street and hit the side of the bronco No major damage thankfully  I dont remember this dent in the door being here  Definitely hit it with the tire  Coworker was right behind me, said the hit killed it instantly. Pretty sure one of my coworkers took it actually. I wasnt hauling it home in the back of the bronco, thats for sure! Accessory drive is all back together, and i reloomed and ran the harness for the Alternator and a/c compressor  The rest of the engine harness comes from the driver side, and is a bit of a mess. Broken loom, disintegrating tape, etc.  Pulling the engine harness apart, i can eliminate all this crap  The square plug goes to the fuel bowl, and that module is the WIF module, which i dont need anymore Looking at the fuel bowl, i can eliminate this entire companion harness  Except, oh wait, i cant, because the pigtail for the IPR is in here.  This whole harness is pretty well shot:  Kinda surprised i didnt have any issues with how bad it is  Plan is to take the pigtail for the IPR out of that harness and splice it back into the main harness so i can clean up the whole harness a good bit. Anyways, main harness is stripped, all this junk can go:  Everything i dont need removed. Tomorrow i will begin cleaning this up and re-looming it for reinstall  Progress! Next thing i needed to do on the diesel was run fuel lines. So heres what i came up with. I started with the original lines at the fuel tank  I didnt use the full length, i cut them off just a foot or so up the frame rail near the shock mount, flared them for a standard fuel line disconnect, and ran the 3/8" Parker Pushlok hose the Irate fuel kit came with:
Fuel pump/filter housing now plumbed. I didnt like how close the fuel hose was to the transfer case so i added a 45º on the outlet side to help it stay away  I ordered a kit for a single tank truck, not thinking that the single tank trucks run the front tank and im running the rear. So it was a little short on fuel hose. My remedy was to made a bracket that fits the frame rail here, and then add a set of 45º bulkhead fittings. Gives me a place to end the Parker hoses, and helps get the forward fuel lines to clear the RABS valve:  From there i laid out some hose, figured out routing and length, and made some hoses:
...and landed at the new fuel rail  With that done, it was time to hotwire the pump and check for leaks  ...and 65 PSI attained with no leaks!  Turbo going back in  Turbo finished, HPOP crossover tube reinstalled, and new intake boots installed. We're getting close now!  Cruising down Rt 78  Caught up with some traffic shortly after that pic   Theres got to be something ironic about a semi going off the road and crashing into a semi truck yard  Anyways, moving right along:  Cruises nice at 70mph, but that whole 3200RPM thing is LOUD! This thing need an OD gear. Arriving at the shop...  ...with 5 out of 6 collector bolts missing!  Thankfully the ball & socket stay fairly close to one another; i ended up driving a couple minutes down the road to Lowes to buy basically any hardware i could get to put them back together.  Strapping down...  ...and here we go!  Seeing a truck this big on a dyno is both awesome and terrifying! We made some pretty decent gains in the little bit of tuning he did:  Apparently the C6 and NP205 are bigger power hogs than i realized. We ended about around 205HP and 415ft/lbs to the ground, which honestly i dont think is terrible. It makes basically all its power off of idle, but with all the tuning her did, it just runs better overall. Much better start, on/off idle, and just across the power band in general. So overall, it was well worth the trip.  Freeze plug installed  pulled the fuel lines and the fuel selector valve out  new fuel pump/filter housing
...and mounted on the frame  Unfortunately that was about as far as i got yesterday. Started planning out fuel lines but didnt get them installed. Didnt know it was going to rain all day today! So no chance of getting the diesel done in time for tomorrow. So, instead of trying to work on it in the rain i pulled the bronco around, packed some parts & supplies in it and got it ready for a road trip to Carlisle tomorrow morning, for some proper dyno tuning!  Would have be cheaper on fuel to tow it, but oh well. At least ill turn some heads on Rt 78 during rush hour tomorrow! While waiting on parts i cleaned up the valley  Also decided that since i was already here, id remove and reseal the plenums  Im cleaning the transmission xmember and spotted a crack in the corner  which i rewelded + threw a coat of paint on it  The new ceramic coated up-pipes from RiffRaff showed up, theyre pretty nice  The Dorman collector arrived as well, doesnt look like a terrible piece  It doesnt come with studs though so i had to extract the old ones and install them into the new collector  Friday morning i got the up-pipes in. Saturday i got the collector in as well. Getting that in was a nightmare. Theres just no room to turn those little bolts. If you look closely, i have the new fuel feed fittings installed in the head, which are 1/8 x -6 JIC fittings  This morning i put the trans xmember and mount back in, then moved on to the fuel system. The fuel return fittings are at the front of the heads. Passenger side the alternator needed to come out to get to the fitting...  ...but on the driver side i had to move the a/c compressor and the accessory drive to get access to the fitting.  With those in, time to lay out the fuel lines. Feed:  and return, with fuelab regulator  This is about as far as ive gotten. Tomorrow im going to remove the old fuel lines coming down off the block to the frame, and hopefully get everything back to the selector valve done, we'll see. Reminder to myself: I still need to put a freeze plug in the hole where the fuel pump used to go. Up-pipes are out  What a fucking nightmare to do. The little bolts in the collector didnt want to come loose, so i sawzalled the passenger pipe off at the collector. Then still couldnt get it out and had to remove the dipstick tube. After that one was out i grabbed the collector and it slid right off the driver tube! Safe to say that side was probably leaking! There is no room to remove the driver up-pipe. Like, at all. I ended up removing the trans xmember so i could lower the back of the motor down to get it down and out. It was still a nightmare, i dont know how im going to get a bellowed one in there.  Turns out my trans mount is fubar, so i guess its a good thing i dropped it. New one on order
Started working on extracting the bolts out of the collector. Got to #4, and it cracked when it came out  The collector is obsolete. International has one, in Indiana, to the tune of ~$400 to get it plus shipping. No one sells one without up-pipes which would be fine except i have the nice ceramic coated ones from RiffRaff arriving Wednesday. Dont really have much of a choice so i ordered the Dorman one with pipes since i can get it by Thursday. Parts ordered, lets get this thing apart. Unplugged the battery, removed the intake, and then the fuel bowl  fuel pump out:  ...and with a little bit of work the turbo is out too!  Next move is going to be to get those pesky up-pipes out of there....  Thats good enough for now. Think im going to soak the up-pipe hardware all weekend and pick back up on this on Monday. |
